A Newbie’s Guide to Collecting Archival Fashion

Pro tip: “There is a lot [of Raf clothing] for less than $100, the most between $100 to $1,000, and the most rare and iconic pieces will be in the thousands to tens of thousands. There are definitely fakes, unfortunately. A lot are pretty obvious. It helps if the piece has some signs of aging and wear, as that is part of the process for Raf clothes and only makes them better. If something seems too new but is supposed to be from the early 2000’s, that is suspicious.”


What to buy: “There’s a reason why I refer her to as “your favorite’s fave”. I think investing in Vivienne

Westwood pieces is almost analogous to collecting art, if you make the right buy it could

absolutely pay off in the future. The most coveted pieces to collect are the ’70s labels (the punk and pirate years), the ’90s Gold Label (up until around 1997/1998 for womenswear), and 1991-2014 for menswear. And there’s a few key pieces from 2014 – 2016 that stand out. I’m absolutely biased towards the late ’80s/early ’90s menswear, for sure. If you’re collecting denim, go for 1991. The printed, more elaborate pieces come a bit later—1993, to be specific.

While Westwood’s corsets and iconic orb logo [pieces] have rightfully garnered attention, Westwood has crafted plenty of essential pieces for men that often fly under the radar. From impeccably tailored coats to stylish and versatile Oxfords, Westwood has covered it all.

Pro tip: “For someone that is fairly new to Westwood, I suggest picking up a book and exploring what eras of Westwood they gravitate towards, given her breadth of work, there’s surely something that will appeal to all senses. And general rule of thumb, when you’re purchasing something from a store or from a person, aim to use Buyer’s Protection within your method of payment. In the event you get a fake, you can contest it and get your money back.”


What to buy: “The ’90s and early-2000s pieces are usually easy to find and coveted. You can get a pretty good deal in terms of quality and price. There’s not a lot of ’80s pieces out there—those are more collector pieces. But because Yohji pieces are made in Japan, they’re amazing quality, they’re always in style. I have a lot of pieces from the ’80s that look brand new.

The entry level stuff would be pants—wool pants, something very simple. They’re really good quality and they fit nicely. From there, the leather jackets, the floral shirts, graphic t-shirts. Stuff that Drake’s worn, basically. Oh, and all the suiting is a bit slept on. You might spend less on a shirt, for example, but you get more for your money from a blazer versus a shirt.”

Pro tip: “If it’s letter sizing, it’s from the ’90s. If it’s number sizing, it’s from the 2000s. I’ve built Yohji-identification software that you can use to find out more specifics.”

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